303 Tasting Notes

70

So I now have my new variable temperature kettle from Bosch to play with. (I finally found the one I wanted through an Italian vendor, so I didn’t have to produce any sort of documents at all to resolve the hostage situation that generally ensues when I receive a suspicious package from a foreign country.)

The Palais des Thés teas are among the greens I’ve been particularly curious about reevaluating. I’m very much against oversteeping greens, so I generally go for 1.5 minutes and boiling, or near-boiling water, as per the usual Lupicia instructions; I’ve found it works well for most flavoured greens, but some of the more delicate ones do deserve a somewhat lighter touch.

This is not one that really benefits from a longer steep at a lower temperature, however; the base still comes off fairly average, the vanilla still doesn’t pop. And still the utter weirdness of a melty caramel nose that’s entirely elusive in the cup.

Maybe if I very surreptitiously drop some kind of toffee bon-bon in and let it dissolve? Or is that cheating?

Preparation
160 °F / 71 °C 3 min, 0 sec
Ysaurella

I didn’t know Bosch was manufacturing variable temp kettle, sounds nice

cteresa

oh that is nice. Very tempting. Is the recipient inside metal or plastic?

Anna

Well, I was going to get this one, and then it was out of stock by the time I got back to Italy. It seemed like a sign to get something I won’t get too attached to (ugh, the stuff I usually accumulate over the course of a year). The inside has a stainless steel base and plastic sides, so it’s definitely not for the true purists. I think it’s a good beginner’s variable temp kettle, though.

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30
drank Rooibos Tropica by Teavana
303 tasting notes

Oh! Oh! Oh! So I cold-steeped the last of this. Unholy artificial citrus horror would sum it up quite well.

I’m dropping this from an indifferent 55 to a near-objectionable 30 for the sheer offensiveness that is Rooibos Tropica iced. Why not lower? Because paired with these citrusy, almondy cantucci I’m having, it’s beautiful. My palate is very confused at the moment.

Now the only things in my tea cupboard bearing Teavana’s logo are my cherished travel thermoses and tins – just as it should be.

[Purchased at Teavana in Honolulu, January 2013.]
[Polished off in Rome, September 2013.]

Preparation
Iced 8 min or more

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85

So yesterday, when I said I was going to make another pitcher, I did make another pitcher.

And now I find myself having to make yet another pitcher, because this is so very good it seems to just evaporate all on its own.

Sorry about the utter lack of variety in tasting notes at the moment, but the few teas I have yet to review are all problematic in their own way, so I’m procrastinating.

(Also this is just so very good.)

Preparation
Iced 8 min or more

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85

This time around, I cold-steeped this, as opposed to cooling a hot-steeped tea. There’s definitely a difference, and for the better – it tastes clearer and lighter, and even the most delicate flavours seem crisper, more well-defined.

Now this might be typical for cold-steeping versus cooling a hot-brewed tea of this kind, but I haven’t experimented with that much at all before, so I’m excited about these highly scientific findings.

Really, really good. I’m making another pitcher.

Preparation
Iced 8 min or more

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70
drank Studio 54 by Bönor & Blad
303 tasting notes

So this, like Safari from the same company, was a tea I got for a friend, but as everything didn’t fit into the little travel kit I put together for her, I got stuck with some to try out for myself. (I am so unfortunate. Suffering. Really.)

I was looking for the black equivalent of the green champagne tea from Tehörnan, and this is what was recommended.

The tea is pretty light and floral in terms of both scent and taste, with that undeniable and yet undefinable lingering note present in all the champagne teas I’ve reviewed so far. To be honest, I find it has very little to do with any form of champagne or sparkling wine at all. It entirely lacks any of the complex exuberance – yeasty, sulphuric or otherwise – I associate with champagne, and there’s not the slightest hint of a boozy note anywhere. So when I get excited about a ‘champagne’ tea, it’s really just because I’m so hooked on that undeniable/undefinable nuance.

That nuance, however, works best in the green tea, very well in the rooibos, and not so well in the black. I expect so much more from a black tea – it can carry so many more nuances of flavor and hints of texture than a green (or even a rooibos). In addition, I often find drinking black teas somewhat challenging because of their richness, so they really have to be worth the effort. This one is not – it’s a black tea masquerading as a much lighter tea, rendering itself redundant in the process.

[Purchased at Bönor & blad in Uppsala, August 2013.]

Preparation
205 °F / 96 °C 3 min, 30 sec

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80
drank Momo Oolong Super Grade by Lupicia
303 tasting notes

I brewed this a little hotter than usual. This kicked the fruity notes down a notch, but really brought out the oolong base, which is ridiculously good. And it re-steeps so well.

In my last review I reminded myself to try this cold. I hereby re-remind myself; I just have to finish the huge pitcher of White Temple tea I made this morning.

Preparation
205 °F / 96 °C 1 min, 30 sec

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90
drank La Poire (Pear) by Palais des Thés
303 tasting notes

I still stand by everything I wrote in my last tasting note for this tea, but as I have had so many quite exceptional greens lately, I feel inclined to drop my rating by five points (Quelle insolence!).

I want to cold brew something today, though – if it’s this one I drop into the pitcher before I go take my tram walk with M. (It’s drizzly, so we might as well take the 3 down to Trastevere, cutting right through the city without getting our feet wet.) it just might get its five points back if it’s very lovely.

Ysaurella

To me Palais des Thés is a very correct brand BUT only correct…I only really loved 2 of their blends. But I may have to taste their unflavoured teas as I never had one from them.Some French reviewers on the net say that the brand is better on unflavoured blends.

Anna

Correct is a good word, it implies that, ‘No complaints can be made, BUT…’ factor. There’s just no excitement, no excess, no surprises. It’s all very unoffensive – but something that is merely unoffensive can never really be impressive.

Ysaurella

yes, it works for tea and it works for men !

Anna

You are sheer perfection, my dear Ysaurella. <3

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95

…and another steep and re-steep. I want to court this tea and love it very tenderly. Forever.

Preparation
Boiling 3 min, 30 sec
keychange

Definitely on my to-try list.

Anna

Oh, you must. But treat my sweetheart ever so gingerly.

Ysaurella

This is such a fantastic tea !

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95
drank Wedding Impérial by Mariage Frères
303 tasting notes

Steeped, and re-steeped. It just gets better.

Preparation
Boiling 3 min, 30 sec

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30
drank Rooibos Tropica by Teavana
303 tasting notes

The dry tea is pretty enough, flush with petals. Scent wise, a slightly chemical citrus dominates.

Brewed, it smells a bit like citrus caramel, which makes me realize I’d really like to try a lemon caramel/lemon fudge tea in addition to all these more obvious lemon-ginger and lemon meringue combinations.

In terms of taste, it’s just a bland, non-descript vaguely floral/lemony rooibos. Not cardboardy at all, but with that hint of artificial flavouring Teavana (unfortunately) seem to have specialized in.

[Purchased at Teavana in Honolulu, January 2013.]

Preparation
Boiling 4 min, 0 sec

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Profile

Bio

I’m going to try all the teas.

Then I will choose a lucky few perfect specimens, and we will live happily together in my tea cupboard.

Forever.

* *

2015

This will be a year of in-betweenness and logistics. Where to put the teas. How to arrange the teas. Which teas to replenish – which ones to say goodbye to.

Still doing Project Green.
Still doing Project Jasmine.
Still doing Project Peach.

Dr. Tea is the name, I’m ahead of my game
still, steeping my leafs, still f*ck with the temps
still not loving Assam (uh-huh)
still rock my Bosch kettle with its high-pitched shriek
still got love for the greens, repping Lupicia
still the cup steams, still doing my thang
since I left, ain’t too much changed, still

(With apologies to Mr. Young.)

2014

This year, all bets are off. I am going to drink both peppermint and chamomile and possibly suffer a little. But it’s okay – it’s for science.

I’m doing Project Jasmine, Project Peach and Project Unflavoured Green.

In terms of flavoured teas, Lupicia and Mariage Frères have become my massive favourites, and I have learned that Dammann Frères/Fauchon/Hédiard and Butiki aren’t really for me.

The O Dor, Adagio and Comptoir des thés et des épices are all on this year’s I’d like to get to know you better list.

2013

Getting back into tea drinking last fall, I was all about rooibos. This past spring has been all green tea, all the time, with some white additions over the summer. Currently attempting a slow, autumnal graduation to black teas. Oolongs are always appropriate.

The constant for me, flavour wise, is the strong presence of fruity and floral notes. Vanilla is lush, as long as it’s not artificial. Peach, berries, mango. Cornflower, rose, lavender.

No peppermint.

No chamomile.

No cinnamon.

Ever.

* *

My ratings don’t reflect the ‘What does this tea do for me?’ standard, but rather my own ‘What would I do for this tea?’ scale.

100-90
My absolute favourites. Teas I would travel for – or, in any case, pay exuberant postage for, because they simply have to be in my cupboard. Generally multi-faceted teas with complex scents and flavours. Teas with personality. Tricky teas.

89-80
Teas I wouldn’t hesitate to buy again if and when I came across them. Tea purchases I would surreptitiously weave into a travel itinerary (Oh! A Lupicia store! Here?! My word!).

79-70
Teas I enjoyed, but don’t necessarily need to make any kind of effort to buy again.

69-0
Varying degrees of disinterest and contempt.

Location

Rome, Italy

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